The final transatlantic days

Monday 4th June

A VERY rough and windy afternoon, with much rolling and crashing about, but making good speed under well reefed rig. Knackered so revert to large tin of Ravioli for supper. Total wind change by evening time sees us trickling along in a dying breeze from astern. From what we had read and heard about the weather, a very big depression, and future gale, was building fast to the south of us and heading toward Ireland, and it was imperative that we get in somewhere by Wednesday night. The problem was that we now dont have quite enough fuel, and it looks like neither will we have quite enough wind. if it falls as it is predicted to.

Tuesday 5th

Its 0330 and we have a rolling swell but calm big moon with beautiful sky. Wind up and down all over the place so much sail tweaking. Engine on/off. Eventually more on than off, so fuel usage become even more of a real worry. With much effing and blinding cockpit locker disgorged in the early hours to retrieve the last jerry can so we can jigger more fuel in. Well, mainly over skippers shoes, as usual.

Goosewinging all day and at 1500 we cross over continental shelf. Goodbye to the ocean blue’s quink-ink seas and hello to murky grey. Wind now really fluky and light and we are trying hard wth every ounce of sail to get a move on. We are now committed to almost continuous motorsailing while trying to find the most fuel efficient revs and speed. By evening, its grey, raining, and  overcast. Welcome to t’northern summer folks.

Wednesday 6th

0040 and lights sighted 20 miles ahead through the gloom. Double check on chart. Yes! Mizen Hd to port and Fastnet to Starboard. Wind now dropped to a zephyr right on the bluuuuudy nose. We decide to go inside the Fastnet so that we can  ‘round it’ before heading on for Kinsale. Slogging away, we make it by 0400 on a cold, clear, and calm night, with a full moon, we toast ourselves, our trip, and the rock, with a glass of Horta wine and a liberal dose of Jamiesons Whiskey. Photosessions with boat, crew, moon, and Fastnet Light.  

Skipper knackered and retires zombie-like. Time for Dave to take us on a dampish dawn cruise along this photogenic coastline of craggy islands, heather clad headlands and hills, and romantic harbours. Still no useful wind and fuel is now a real worry. We seriously consider Baltimore or Glandore as possible refuelling places.

Baltimore by the way was the victim of one of Europe’s biggest 17thC acts of piracy. A squadron of Barbary pirates arrived early one morning, alas, not for pints of Guinness, but to take away the whole population into slavery. Very few returned again to their old home.

Thankfully, the zephyr at last turns into a fine westerly by mid morning and soon we are running along the spectacular coast between 7 heads and Old Head of Kinsale. A couple of fast and hairy gybes later we find ourselves entering Kinsale, the mouth of the River Bandon. A lovely well protected harbour guarded on both sides by impressive 17thC fortifications. Kinsale was the site of the final stand of the ancient Irish chieftancy against the might of Queen Elizabeth. The Irish were only feebly supported by their allies, the Spanish, and finally they lost to the superior English forces. In the months after the battle, the old Gaelic earldoms were forced to surrender their powers and lands and most of the ancient aristocracy fled abroad to form regiments, and dynasties,  in the Spanish, French, Italian, and later, South American theatres.

Anyway, enough of that stuff. We finally raft up alongside Kinsale Marina at 1500 after 9 days,15 hrs and 1225 miles from Horta. (3927 miles sailed from St Barths, WI).Berth arranged with help from local man Mike McLaughlin, whom we’d met in St Lucia on his boat ‘Transcendence’. Ashore to YC for many pints of Murphys.

The rest of the week was taken up with family reunions and comparative tastings of Murphys, Beamish, and Guinness. Jury still out on the results. Also of course storing and repairing stuff.

Next leg to Falmouth, and UK south coast, begins 12th June.  Crew will be skipper, plus RNSA member, and Raparee No1 mate on earlier legs, Bill Lewis from Kent, and Ken Buggy, celebrated hotelier and chef from Waterford. Being a novice to this game, Ken is extremely apprenhensive......but once settled, the food will be great!.

More later.